T-Oinos winery, eight years later: quality and evolution

By Yiannis Karakasis MW

Eight years ago, in 2016, I first visited Tinos Island and was captivated by the thriving potential of T-Oinos Winery, which was on a promising journey to establish itself not only among Greece's premier wine producers but also to make its mark on the world stage. Today, this journey is marked by significant changes, major investments, and an unwavering commitment to producing exceptional terroir-driven wines. The transformation is evident in the winery's new facilities (more on that at the end of the article) and is deeply rooted in its vineyard philosophy and winemaking techniques.

T-Oinos Winery has steadily expanded its vineyard holdings, cultivating nearly 13 hectares. "There is potential to grow to 17 hectares soon," says winemaker Thanos Georgilas (pictured above), who works under the guidance of renowned top wine-consultant Stéphane Derenoncourt. Their primary focus remains on two key vineyards: Assyrtiko and Mavrotragano, with minor plantings of Avgoustiatis and Malagousia used solely for their two rosé wines, Mavrose and the new Clos Stegasta Rosé—the latter a blend of all four varieties.

Despite its expansion, production at T-Oinos remains tiny, almost microscopic. "We never compromise on quality," states Georgilas. Even in an outstanding vintage, production is restricted to 25,000 bottles. In 2023, output was deliberately reduced to less than 20,000 bottles," he adds. With the harvest for the 2024 vintage having just commenced—20 days earlier than usual—production is anticipated to decrease by more than 30%, underscoring the stringent measures they undertake to ensure high standards despite the challenges.

In terms of style, both Assyrtiko and Mavrotragano wines persistently pursue greater elegance. Georgilas notes that T-Oinos has redefined its use of oak, aiming for ETP: Energy, Transparency, and Purity. This involves meticulous work in the vineyard, reduced use of oak, and a stronger focus on the clarity and drive of the fruit. Indeed, each new release increasingly showcases mineral characteristics and terroir expression, as evidenced by the Clos Stegasta Assyrtiko 2022 and Mavrotragano 2020.

T-Oinos offers six key labels with no current plans for additional ones. Assyrtiko and Mavrotragano are presented in the Clos Stegasta and Rare versions, complemented by two rosés: Mavrose and Clos Stegasta Rosé. The grapes are sourced from four different vineyards:

- The Stegasta vineyard, spanning 8 hectares (pictured below)
- The Rassonas vineyard, 2 hectares
- The Ag Dimitrios vineyard, covering 1.5 hectares
- The Sparveri vineyard, at 2.5 hectares

Navigating extreme conditions has emerged as a significant challenge for T-Oinos, with climate change posing a constant threat. Drought, in particular, has been a persistent concern. A decade ago, the average annual rainfall was around 600 mm; now, it has dwindled to just 300 mm. "Here, conditions are extreme. We need to reconsider everything," says Georgilas, highlighting the urgency and adaptability required to maintain their high standards. To combat these challenges, T-Oinos has implemented innovative solutions, such as establishing rainwater collection systems and drilling for groundwater. Adjustments in pruning techniques and reducing leaf area are considered to slow the ripening process. Additionally, there are thoughts to decrease vine densities, which currently stand at 11,000 vines per hectare. These measures aim to sustain their vineyards and ensure the continued production of high-quality grapes despite the increasingly harsh conditions.

This ongoing project culminates in a new state-of-the-art winery, designed in the shape of the T-Oinos logo, which incorporates green and geothermal energy principles and is fully integrated with the surrounding terrain. The projected completion date for this cutting-edge facility is 2026.